Our B25K60 measures at 13.25kohm across first and third terminal, meaning we need something around 10kohm rating. Then what does total resistance change, I=V/R total current in circuit. Meaning V(out) our signal (gas, brake, clutch) is determined purely by how much you "rotate" the potentiometer, not it's total resistance. Meaning, you have a voltage divider circuit, lets say you have 10V, you want 5V, both a 10 ohm potentiometer and a 10000000 ohm (10 Mohm) potentiometer set half way (5 ohm or 5000000 ohm) will give you 5V out, theoretically. Why I bring it up, many the post online talk about the total resistance (R1+R2) of potentiometer as the thing that gives the signal its value, but the signal (V(out)) is determined by the ratio between the resistance you set and the total resistance of the potentiometer. Here is the formula for voltage divider V(out)=V(in)*(R2/(R1+R2)). What that means is that each pedal has 3 wires (Ground, Supplied voltage, and Signal which is our V(out)). Sim pedals use voltage divider arrangement. Potentiometers have 2 main uses, first as a variable resistor (only 2 of the 3 terminals are used), second as a voltage divider (all 3 terminals are used). To understands values we care about, we must understand how potentiometer pedals work in the first place. Then there is the connection, through pins or solder lugs will work. Most 6mm diameter shaft will have the same mounting nut (10mm). Shaft length is not that crucial, a shorter will work as well. Shaft has a ground flat portion, these type of shaft are called D shafts or flat shaft. The B25K60 has a 6mm diameter shaft that is about 13mm in length (~19mm total including threads). ![]() So we need to find analog part locally (Europe), but to do that we have to understand how everything works. But we do not have full model name, their website is terrible, and I am not ordering 2 to 3 times from alibaba or aliexpress till I find direct replacement. TM also makes flight sim pedals and in those are Fanrui RK166N (dongguan fanrui electronics) potentiometers, looking at Fanrui products there is a chance our B25K60 is a Fanrui of some sorts. Best case scenario, a model name, but under that name might be hundreds of specific variations (resistance, taper, shaft, mounting, connection, we will get there, do not worry). Which means that manufacturer has to make model specific case or mark them afterwards, that is why cheap pots usually do not have full model name on them. Why, because potentiometers have many variations, and usually the outer case is shared by many of these variants. Step 1: Get info from original potentiometer.ī25K60 is the only marking on mine, and it tells us. There is a lot though, lets go step by step. Then order potentiometers elsewhere, right, how hard can that be, pots are very common parts, easy? Well, if you are not an electrician or avid DIYer, it is not straight forward, and post with half-truths or flat-out wrong information can mislead, so I am here to help. Should be easy, right? Step one, go to TM website order replacement, done, right? No, TM does not offer replacement potentiometers on their website, some people have contacted them directly and it seems to be possible to get potentiometers in some parts of the world, so maybe, but most likely not a option. I have a T3PA set I no longer use, with worn out potentiometer (accelerator pot had jittery input, fixed with cleaning 2 or 3 times, then stop having input in TM control panel at all), that I have decided to fix. But working terrible pedals are better then non-working ones (not by much though in case of TM). Side-note, yes, all TM budget pedals are terrible, yes, there are better options, we all know this. If you are new to repair and DIY it can be very confusing, so hopefully I can help. Why post? There are a couple of post online about potentiometers on thrustmaster (TM from now on) pedals dying, some posts about specific model of potentiometers used in TM pedals, some about ordering replacement potentiometers from TM themselves, and frankly speaking, these post all are not very good, they skip important info, or have a bunch of half-truths. I replaced potentiometers on my thrustmaster pedals (T3PA) with non-original potentiometers (cheapest, lowest quality ones I could find locally as per Thrustmaster standards). !NOT for Thrustmaster T3PM and T-LCM, shoot, off you go, magnets how do they work?!
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